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1. How Far Did
Mallory & Irvine Get?
1A. Review of Jeffery Archer's Paths of
Glory
2.
Care & Developing of Frozen A127 Film
3. Did Mallory & Irvine reach the
Summit?
Q&A with Tom Holzel
4. The Search for Andrew Irvine
5. Q & A on The Search for Andrew Irvine
6.
New Clue on Sighting of Irvine
7.
Aerial Photographic Discovery of Irvine?
8.
Who Owns Irvine's VPK Camera?
9.
Contract Terms vs Claims of
VPK Ownership
10. Mallory & Irvine's Route Through the Yellow Band
Edited by Tom Holzel, Rev 02 Sept 2011
__________________________________________________________________________________
1.
In 1924,
two British mountaineers were spotted high on Mt. Everest at
about 1PM, only a few hours from the summit.
Mists swirled in and lost them to view. It was veteran climber George Mallory
and his powerful young companion Andrew Irvine.
Both men were using early oxygen equipment, climbing in the last gasp of this,
the third expedition to the mountain.
The question that remains in every mountaineer’s heart has never been answered:
Did either make it to the top before perishing on the descent?

Mallory & Irvine on the SS California en route to Mt. Everest.
(Photo: Daily Telegraph, photographer unknown.)
Controversy broke out within months of the
expedition’s return to England. Where, exactly, did Noel Odell see the two
climbers?
He said he saw them surmounting the infamous Second Step. Critics insisted that
was an impossible obstacle even for a climber as skilled as Mallory.
Counter-claims arose, with defenders of Mallory & Irvine suggesting that it was
simple jealousy of the climbing community, still hoping
to reserve the goal of First Ascent for themselves.
Odell saw the pair climbing the
severely difficult Second Step in less than five minutes. Critics claimed that
the Second Step was far too difficult
an obstacle and a few did not believe he saw anyone. Others hinted that Odell
mistook rocks for the two climbers. Modern critics claim that
Odell must have seen them climbing the much easier First Step. Both are
promontories on the NE Ridge. The First Step is easily circumvented;
the Second Step bars that route to the summit.

Mt.
Everest North Face showing “the Mallory
Route.”
It is not know which variation they took near the NE Shoulder.
Mallory’s presumed
fall-line
is shown. (Photo John English, High Mountain.)
The next expedition, that of
1933, was far better equipped.
Wynn Harris found an ice ax belonging to Irvine along the ridge.
It was presumed this marked the site of an accident on their descent. But
descent from how high up? There were no further clues
and the issue seemed to smoldered out.

Reading the fascinating saga,
it was not clear to me that the disreputable role of oxygen had been adequately
factored into the puzzle.
After analyzing the ascent speed of all known climbs on Mt. Everest, the
resulting chart showed clearly that climbers using oxygen climbed faster
than those that did not.[1]
Extrapolating from this data discovered the probable climbing speed of Mallory
and Irvine and suggested that having
reached the top of the Second Step as witnessed by Odell, they would each have
had an hour or so of oxygen left. The summit was
three hours away.
Mallory could not have given up
so close to his goal. He could have taken Irvine’s remaining oxygen, sent him
back down to safety, and made
a solo attempt to reach the top—which he might have reached. Or so it seemed to
me. Just a pre-publication notice of this idea in the
London Sunday Times created a 3-week firestorm of objections. When the
article was then published, Wynn Harris (who had found the ice ax)
was moved to apoplexy in denouncing these findings. Blowing on these coals had
certainly caused this great mystery to burst back into flame.
œ
The next clue was discovered in
1979. Learning that Japanese climbers would be the first permitted access to
Everest’s North side
since WW-II, I sent a letter asking them to be on the look-out for a body on the
North Face snow field at 8200m. Astonishingly,
they replied that their Climbing Leader had held a brief conversation with Wang
Hung-bao, a Tibetan porter who had been on a huge
1975 Chinese expedition. He described “an English dead” he had discovered high
on the North Face. He had scribed “8100m” in the
snow with his ice ax. This could only be Mallory or Irvine! The day after this
revelation, Wang died in an avalanche. But this clue was
enough to galvanize interest in finally solving this great mystery. I mounted an
expedition in 1986 to search for the English dead and
the cameras the two climbers were known to be carrying.[2]
Would pictures be found taken from the top of the world? We were not to
find out. The weather was atrocious and we were snowed-out.
Another American search expedition took to
the field in 1999. Led by Eric Simonson with a search plan devised by Jochen
Hemmleb,
the team met with excellent weather and with spectacular success.[3]
On the first day of the high-altitude search, Conrad Anker stumbled
across Mallory’s body at 8165m in a snow field below the ice ax that contained
many other fallen climbers. The body was lying face-down,
the head nearly completely covered with scree.[4]
The most notable new clue was a severe mottling around Mallory’s waist—
a typical rope-jerk injury.
In spite of this spectacular find, the
mystery seemed no closer to being solved. Advocates for success claimed that
none of the clues—
old or new--detracted from Odell’s sighting of the two on the Second Step, and
everyone agreed that if the two had got that far, at least
one of them would have made a dash for the top.

The First and Second Steps. Odell had described seeing the pair crossing a
snow patch and then one of
them “breaking skyline” a few minutes later. The First Step is always
circumvented; the Second blocks the
route and must be climbed. Shown here are the two snow patches that might
qualify for the one Odell saw the pair crossing,
in this fabulous panorama by Jake Norton.
Controversy has raged unabated over
which Step Odell saw the two climbers. And everything hinges on which step it
was.
At first Odell was certain he saw them climbing the very difficult Second
Step—and the expedition members took that for granted
at the time. Yet back in England, this consensus suffered a gradual shift. After
six months, the British climbing establishment had
slowly decided it could not possibly have been the extremely difficult Second
Step Odell saw them surmount. It must have been the
nearer and similar appearing First Step. Odell himself eventually recanted, but
after he was no longer a candidate for further expeditions,
he returned to his original belief. The underlying question has always been: Why
his confusion?
Odell was on the North Col and must have seen
Mallory's note sent down by porters to expedition photographer Capt John Noel.
It said in part: "It won't be too early to start looking for us either crossing
the rock band under the pyramid or going skyline at 8 p.m."
(He meant 8 a.m.).[5]
"The pyramid,"
i.e., the summit pyramid begins at the Second Step. "Going skyline" means
cresting the ridge. It was well-known that
Mallory intended to climb via the NE Ridge and Second Step (the "Mallory
Route"), rather than the alternate Great Couloir or "Norton Route."
He had Norton’s testimony about his route, and kept it in mind as a possible
alternate when writing his note. Visually, both places
described in the note are very close to each other. Thus, Odell knew exactly
where Mallory expected to be at 8 AM on June 8th.
On that same day, Odell was climbing
up the North Ridge to resupply the highest camp, C-VI. At 26,000-ft he looked up
as the mists
parted and suddenly saw the NE ridge unveiled. Stunningly, he spotted Mallory
and Irvine climbing a step — but greatly behind schedule.
What thoughts would immediately have raced thorough his mind? It would certainly
have been the thrill of seeing his comrades so high
above him. But that must have been coupled with the shock that they were-five
hours late climbing the Step. This is where Odell jumped
to an incorrect conclusion: Because he saw them climbing upwards, even so late,
he naturally assumed they were still en route
to the summit. Since the Second Step is the only one of the two steps that must
be climbed, It would
never have occurred to Odell that
they would be climbing anywhere else than on the Second Step. Why would they? No
one ever talked about climbing the First Step.
It was not on the route. If they were en route to the summit, as Odell naturally
assumed because they were ascending, the only step that
needed to be climbed was the Second Step. And there they were!
Odell was enthralled by this "dramatic appearance" in
which "they were moving expeditiously as if endeavouring to make up for lost
time.
"[6]
After five minutes the mists closed-in and they were lost to view. But Odell’s
vision of the two on their way to the top burned into his
memory--minus only any recognition of where, exactly he had seen then. That
thrilling part his mind filled in without a second thought.
Yet why were the two climbers so late?[7]
Many researchers have suggested that they were late because they started late,
and they
started late because the unsporting oxygen equipment had needed another
emergency repair. But the evidence doesn't point
that way. They had raced up the North Ridge using only ¾ of a bottle of gas--a
climb rate of 840 vert ft/hr at the lower oxygen flow rate
—and an ascent nearly as fast as Finch’s amazingly fast oxygen climb in 1922
over the same terrain. They had reached the assault
camp C-VI in plenty of time the day before to have made any repairs to the
cantankerous oxygen equipment, were that necessary.
But we know the equipment was working perfectly because two of their spent
oxygen bottles were spotted just short of the First Step
by Eric Simonson in 1991. The altitude difference between them and C-VI divided
by one bottle’s duration (4 hours at the higher flow rate)
shows that they two were climbing at 275 ft/hr. –also excellent speed at that
altitude. (With open-circuit oxygen systems, climbing
speed decreases with altitude.) Thus, except for the lateness of the day, (which
can be explained by other reasons) there is no evidence
for a “late start” or a balky oxygen system.[8]
Assuming a normal “early start” at --5
to 6 AM--and based on their demonstrated climbing speed--means they would have
reached the
First Step between 10 and 11 o’clock. Yet Odell saw them climbing a Step—which
we now suggest was the First Step--two to three
hours later—at 12:50PM. If they were only then on the First Step--what had they
been doing in this 2-3 hour interval?
Therefore, the crucial thing to
realize is that if they were seen climbing the First Step, it can only mean they
were no longer ascending.
It is a detour off their ascent route, but makes a marvelous vantage point from
which to study the continuing ridge.
The simplest and therefore most likely
scenario is that they were returning from their highest point.
Perhaps they climbed all
the way to the base of the Second Step's open-book crux. Up close, the actual
severity of this crucial obstacle must have hit hard. Mallory
had stated that the next time he made an attempt, it would be all or nothing.[9]
He was through exhausting himself only to set another
altitude record short of the summit. The prospect of climbing the terrifying
Second Step overhang with 9,000-ft of exposure and no protection
or belay, and already on his last bottle of oxygen, must surely have seemed a
risk not worth taking. In addition, Mallory had already
thoroughly exhausted himself on this expedition with rescues of porter, and then
himself, and had an aborted assault without oxygen the
previous week.[10]
Thus, at noon, standing at the ferocious crux of the Second Step, Mallory
realized that this was his last hurrah.
The 250-yd traverse between the First
to the Second Step is steep and treacherous. Mallory might have taken this
stretch alone while
Irvine waited at the First Step; more likely they made the traverse together.
With no fixed lines, the distance takes a tricky one to two hours.
Mallory was the shining star of the
British Climbing Establishment—the Royal Geographic Society and the Alpine Club.
In 1921 he became
the first human to set foot on the mountain, and he spied a route to the summit.
In 1922 he had tried for the top and failed. Now in 1924,
at age 37, he was making what he himself had said would be his last attempt. By
switching to the “unsporting” use of oxygen, the gloves
had been taken off and he was attacking the mountain one last time by any and
all means, fair and foul. But the mountain had won again.
Hugely disappointed, they turned back to the safe ground of the First Step.
Now, at 1PM,
they had plenty of time. As a consolation prize, they clambered up the First
Step for a final look around. This was exactly
what the French did in 1981 when they, too, could no longer continue. Perhaps a
view of the backside of the Second Step would reveal
an alternate route. Certainly photographs were taken. Makalu glowered a scant 14
miles away. They ate some Kendal Mint Cakes.
Descending the Step, they began the long descending
traverse along the NE Ridge. A half-hour later (2PM) they were hit by a nasty
snow squall. Odell describe this as driving sleet and biting wind. “One could
not see more than a few yards ahead…”[11]
[21 Oct 2008]
Once the squall began, they
would surely have roped-up, and Mallory would have taken the lead. If
they had ascended via the modern route
—cutting diagonally through the Yellow Band, Mallory would be looking
for the “Exit Cracks,” those several cuts in the terrain which
eventually lead to the then obvious route. But finding the cracks on the
descent is tricky, even in clear weather, and they are easily missed.
The climbers must then blunder their way down, still descending
diagonally, but not finding the easiest path. It is highly likely in my
view
that once the squall hit, they would have tried to descend as rapidly as
possible—and thus chosen some variation of the modern diagonal descent.
With the onset of the squall
and its driving wind, their greatest danger now lay not in getting
lost—there are many ways to descend from the
NE Ridge—but in becoming hypothermic due to their totally inadequate
clothing. [17]
Their clothing
that was only marginally effective on Everest,
and only in low wind and moderately low temperature. This is because the
insulation was not thick enough to prevent conductive heat loss,
and the material was not windproof enough to prevent convective heat
loss. With the onset of the squall both would now be entering the
first stages of hypothermia, with its attendant reduction in reflex
time, strength and judgment.
Due to poor visibility on the
newly snow-coated rocks, Mallory slipped and Irvine tossed his ice ax
aside to grab the rope with both hands.
Or Irvine slipped, perhaps while struggling to remove the now spent
oxygen system. The jerk of one climber's slip in a “gentleman’s belay”[12]
is enough to pull his partner off his feet, but not nearly enough to
inflict the significant rope-jerk injury that Mallory’s body exhibited
around
his waist. As they both fell Irvine would have had a second or so
of time to react and try to slide feet-first. Mallory was caught
by surprise.
Perhaps Irvine was able to loop the rope over a rock to let it snag
early in the fall. It likely snapped from the strain—but slowed them
enough
to enable them both to halt their falls. This fall inflicted rope-jerk
injuries around at least Mallory's waist. In just a few minutes, the
situation
had gone from a tired, controlled descent to a desperate fight for
survival.
As the leader, Mallory’s first responsibility was to
young Irvine. But they were now separated by one of the many ledges of
the Yellow Band
—a ledge high and steep enough that neither of them could climb up or
down. Also, visibility was only a few yards, according to
Odell farther down. Probably injured, unable to climb back up to aid
Irvine, possibly disoriented from the shock of the fall, and certainly
beginning to feel the effects of hypothermia, Mallory had but one
choice—get down as fast as possible.
Mallory continued on, picking his way diagonally
downhill.
He exited the Yellow Band and continued his descent onto
the “8200m snow terrace.”
Perhaps, like both Norton and Odell before him, he conducted a series of
glissades to speed his descent to Camp 4. But on one of these,
he lost control. Attempting to use his ice ax to self-arrest, it kicked
back and pierced his skull.[13] He tumbled and
slithered to the very edge
of the snow terrace and crashed into a rock that stopped his fall.[14] This
scenario explains why Mallory’s body was not nearly as
dramatically traumatized as others (e.g., Wu Zongyue) that had fallen
into his same area, but uncontrollably from higher up.
It was lying on this rock that Wang found Mallory (I
believe), possibly with the ice ax still stuck in his forehead. That’s
why Wang made
the gesture to his own face--to indicate the deadly puncture. (Or he
simply noticed the plum-sized hole and recognized its lethality.)
He said nothing about Mallory's nearly broken-off foot.
Wang then rolled Mallory off the rock in order to effect
a symbolic burial, placing a few rocks on the body, which, over the
years, melded
into its pacific crucifix position.
This also explains the crossed-over foot--the whole foot improbably on
top of the broken one.
The major support for this new scenario is the realization that Wang
found Mallory's ice ax near his body! (according to
teammate testimony). It is just not possible that his ice ax would have
neatly fallen along side Mallory, had he taken a long fall.
But if he had been successfully glissading, he would not only be in
possession of his ice ax, but using it to control his slide.
It is thus is very likely to have kicked back during an attempt to halt
a slide which was getting out of control. This is nearly
the only way to explain the very unusual puncture wound inflicted on
Mallory's forehead.
When you integrate Mallory & Irvine's overall exhaustion, their lack of
adequate hydration (remember Norton & Somervell coming down
a few days earlier after a PERFECT day screaming "We want drink."), the
length and difficulty of the route, Irvine's lack of climbing
experience, and the total inadequacy of their clothing
[17]
to sustain them in a white-out snow squall--well, there just aren’t many
positive indicators left for a possible summit success scenario.
Certainly unquenchable drive alone just won't do.
Irvine, too, if still alive, realized that he could not follow Mallory
down, separated as they now were by an unclimbable ledges and the
driving squall.
He continued a descending traverse. Eventually he got to the edge of
another ledge—one of the many ledges that comprise the
Yellow Band. Too exhausted, too cold to climb back up and seek out yet
another descent route, he spotted a small rock clefttt
offering the possibility of some slight shelter from the freezing wind.
Dazed by hypothermia, he lay down and hoped for the best.
œ
In spite of many searches made along
Mallory’s fall line, Irvine has not been found. A
big break-through in resolving the mystery
(and perhaps the final major clue) came in 2001, when Eric Simonson and Jochen
Hemmleb (of the 1999 Mallory & Irvine Research
Expedition) returned to Beijing to track down Xu Jing, a climber of the Chinese
expedition of 1960.[15]
Astonishingly, he recalled
seeing a body lying on its back in a rock clefttt in the same general area as
Mallory’s but still in or above in the Yellow Band,
200-300m higher up. It could only have been Irvine.
In 1960 Chinese climbers had reached the NE Ridge by climbing
diagonally through the Yellow Band as all modern climbers do.
But they did not mark the route and each team found its own way up and down the
tiled strata. It was when descending in this
random fashion that Xu spotted the blackened body of a “foreign mountaineer.”
Thirty-five years is a long time to hold accurate memories
of exactly where this body was briefly noticed, and Xu could not specify where
in the Yellow Band he saw it. But his memory of having
seen the anomalous body was clear enough. Just like Wang finding Mallory, Xu
must certainly have spotted Irvine.
The higher location of Xu’s dramatic
sighting means that Irvine, also probably injured, did not fall as far as
Mallory. Unable to find Mallory
in the driving sleet, he continued on a while longer. But in the near white-out
he would not have been able to retrace the route, difficult
to follow even in clear weather. Descending through a random part of the Yellow
Band he, too, finally succumbed to his injuries in the
frigid squall. If Xu's sighting is correct, he sought shelter from the howling
storm in a small rock clefttt. His blackened features indicate he
did not die suddenly but slowly froze to death.
Although each climber was believed to have taken a
Vest Pocket Kodak (VPK) camera, no camera was found on or near Mallory’s body.
His was likely striped from his body during his falls and would be difficult
(though not impossible) to find. Irvine, however, seems to have lain
down to die. If he did not lose his camera in his shorter fall that broke the
rope, it would surely still be on his person.[16]
The mystery of Mallory & Irvine has
fascinated mountaineers—actual and armchair—for generations. What a glorious
feat it would have
been for those two vastly under-equipped pioneers of Everest to have reached the
top. It is a dream that has thrilled and inspired adventurers
as much then—80 years ago--as it does today. Upon reaching the summit in 1953,
Sir Edmund Hillary looked for signs of his possible
predecessor but saw nothing. But theirs was no ordinary failure. The
stirring example of the intrepid pair was their great daring on slender
resources.
The pitting of their great dream against the implacable brutality of Mt.
Everst--the Mother Goddess of the Snow. Yes, they did not return,
but their bold effort lives on as no mere climbing success ever could.
œ
[1]
See climb rate chart at “The
Mystery of Mallory & Irvine,” Mountain Magazine, Sept 1971. In
spite of clear evidence from as early
as Finch’s record ascent-speed using oxygen in 1922, and the
demonstrated high ascent-speed of Mallory & Irvine up the North Col,
1933 expedition leaders truculently refused to believe that any claimed
boost of breathing “artificial” oxygen was not outweighed by the
clumsiness of the apparatus. They took oxygen equipment but did not use
it. They took crampons but did not use them above the North Col.
They reached the First Step at SEVEN A.M. (!) but were cowed by and did
not approach the crux of the Second Step, which is the route climbed
by 95% of North Face mountaineers.
[2]
The Mystery of Mallory & Irvine, Tom Holzel and Audrey Salkeld,
The Mountaineers Books, (1986), 1999
[3]
Ghosts of Everest: The search for Mallory & Irvine, Simonson,
Hemmleb , Johnston, The Mountaineers Books, 2000. This excellent
work lavishly documents the discovery of Mallory’s body.
[4]
“Scree” is a collection of rocks that
have ablated off and which usually collect at the base of slabs and
cliffs. Also known as “talus.”
[5]
Story of Everest,
John Noel, p.214.
[6]
The Fight for Everest: 1924, Lt-Col. E.F. Norton, Edward Arnold,
1925. p 130. This is the official 1924 expedition record. A
wonderful book.
[7]
This vexing question, and that of where Odell saw the two, has been
fertile ground for a myriad of suppositions, all driven by the desire
to achieve some predetermined outcome entailing a successful
summiting.
[8]
Norton suggested that “this unaccountable delay was at least partly, due
to some mechanical defect in the apparatus which postponed their
start while Irvine was putting it right.”
Fight, p 198. Anti-oxygen climbers were always quick to denigrate
the use of oxygen, and were blind to its proven benefits.
[9]
SOURCE?
[10]
“That cutting
(himself out a crevasse) against time at the end after such a day just
about brought me to my limit.” (May 27), Fight, p237.
“My one personal
trouble has been a cough. It started a day or two before leaving Base
Camp but I thought nothing of it. In the high camp (C-3) it has been
the devil. Even after the day’s exercise I have described I couldn’t
sleep, but was distressed with bursts of coughing fit to tear one’s
guts—and a headache and misery altogether; besides which of course it
has a very bad effect on one’s going on the mountain.” Fight p237.
“Norton has made me responsible for choosing the parties of the
attack, himself first choosing me into the first party if I like.
But I’m quite doubtful if I shall be fit enough.” (May 29), Fight p239.
[11]
Fight, p 132.
[12]
If the two were roped in a "gentleman's
belay," i.e., simply roped only to each other, the falling climber will
experience no jerk unless his partner can then affix—belay--the rope
to the ground—unlikely in Irvine's situation of having flung the ice ax
aside. This tactic—practically a mutual suicide pact--is only used
today over relatively flat terrain.
[13]
This was a classic injury caused by the older self-arrest method of
holding on to the ice ax held next to one’s head with both hands.
It can work well sliding over packed snow, but is impossible to
control over snow-covered rocks.
[14]
Tumbling bodies
don't usually come to a halt on 30° slopes for no reason. Mallory's fall
must have been stopped by an obstacle— in this case, the large rock
by his left arm. That suggests he might have lain on the rock--perhaps
on his back--not on the scree. When Wang found him, he saw the
deadly hole in his head (which he reported) and flipped him over
face-down onto the scree in order to pile a few rocks on him.
[15]
Detectives on Everest, Jochen Hemmleb & Eric Simonson, The
Mountaineers Books, 2002, page 183. This work is a trove of excellent
and detailed research on the search for Mallory & Irvine. The 1960
Chinese expedition was the first non-British and first post WW-II climb
of
the North side of Mt. Everest.
[i]
Norton on the descent from his attempt: “Arriving on the big snow bed, I
glissaded for some little distance before I realized that Sommervell
had stopped behind, and I had to wait quite half an hour for him to
catch up.” Fight for Everest, p 114. Also, Odell on his return
from his support
climb to Mallory & Irvine on June 8th: “…finding the snow
between 24,800 and 23,500 feet hard and conveniently steep, it was
possible to indulge
in a fast standing glissade that brought me to Camp IV by 6:45 p.m.”
Fight, page 133. Thus glissading on Everest was a known and
oft-practiced
technique.
[16]
If the
camera is ever found, it must be handled with extreme care or all latent
images will be lost. It should immediately be wrapped-up
tightly in light-tight aluminum foil (to contain the parts if broken),
kept below freezing (store it in a double-boot filled with snow),
and taken to a photo lab in Katmandu as quickly as practical. It can not
under any circumstances be x-rayed by the powerful checked-luggage
x-ray machines. It must be developed using a special protocol developed
by Eastman Kodak experts who have specifically studied this Everest
film problem. [See Instructions below.]
[17]
Human thermo-regulation expert
Professor George Havenith of Loughborough University (UK),
has tested a rigorously accurate recreation of Mallory's clothing in
a weather chamber. His conclusion:
"If the wind speed had
picked up, a common feature of weather on Everest, the insulation of
the clothing would only just be sufficient to minus -10C [+14F]. Mallory
would not have survived any deterioration in conditions." See:
http://www.lboro.ac.uk/service/publicity/publications/view/springsummer08/mallory.html
. Windchill was what the pre WW-II clothing could not keep out
(although thin leather would have done a good job), and Prof. Havenith
surmises this factor led to hypothermia and is what directly led to
M & I's death. This new scientific evidence counters the previous claims
(
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/5076634.stm )
that their simulated clothing, "tested" by an advocate for their
summit success by prancing around at Advance Base Camp, was just
dandy.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
1a.Review
of Jeffery Archer’s book “Paths of Glory,”
a fictional biography (!) of George Mallory.
30 December 2009
by Tom Holzel
(From amazon.com book review:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/cdp/member-reviews/A7HQMP5JGS9I3/ref=cm_cr_pr_auth_
rev?ie=UTF8&sort%5Fby=MostRecentReview)
Is
this a new trend? A recent blockbuster film--"Sherlock Holmes"--in
which Holmes is not the prissy gentleman detective created by
Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, but a slovenly 1960's hippy, and Dr Watson
is no longer a bumbling senior citizen, but a very dapper
younger man. The two trade snarky insults with all the fervor of a
friendship that cannot say its name.
But at least Sherlock Holmes was fictional! Now along comes
Jeffery Archer and recreates a revered historical figure, George
Mallory of Everest, that also bares no resemblance to the
personality and career of the actual figure. This artistic
license might work if he had painted an interesting portrait of this
complicated man and his tragic drive to conquer the world's
highest peak, but the portrait that results is a complete soap opera
rewrite. His detailed descriptions of Mallory's teammates, their
camp site palaver, even the geography of the mountain, will make
anyone cringe who has even a passing acquaintance with this
famous saga.
Mallory was an earnest Boy Scout riding the social coattails
of his Alpine and literary acquaintances. He was too personally
disorganized ever to be a leader of men, nor did he have the
interpersonal toughness for the job. The Alpinists respected him
for his astonishingly skill at rock and mountain climbing; the
literati adored his physique and fey demeanor. And he was a good
guy. Yet Archer has Mallory boldly taking over the Royal Geographic
Society's (RGS) Everest Committee selection process with the
commanding forcefulness of a Sergeant Major--qualities he wholly
lacked--and boldly leading two Everest expeditions once on the
mountain (he was on three). It is true that Mallory was appointed
"climbing leader" in 1924, but that position was
a mere pat on the back and tightly supervised by Colonel Norton,
who was a true leader of men.
While he has Mallory issuing
ultimatums to the august governing board left and right, Archer
completely leaves out one of Mallory's greatest achievements--
discovering the primary route to the top from the Tibetan side and
then being the first human to set foot on Everest's mighty
flanks. This first expedition to Mt. Everest--the Reconnaissance
Expedition of 1921--is not on Archer's path to glory. This was
when Mallory and Guy Bullock almost circumnavigated Everest seeking
the best approach to its steep slopes. After five months of the
most arduous exploration, Mallory and Bullock finally discovered the
hidden eastern side of the North Col at the head of the East
Rongbuk Glacier. And it was at the beginning of this expedition,
when absolutely nothing was known about the mountain's geography,
that Mallory wrote to his wife that "we are about to walk off
the map." Of course that phrase is far too evocative to leave out,
so Archer merely lifts it to plug into another made-up
expedition.
Archer is so enamored with the politically correct Tibetan
name for Mt. Everest--"Chomolungma"--that he stuffs it into all
the climbers' mouths. But the term was never used by them, and first
appeared on Wheeler's 1925 map entitled "Mount Everest and the
Chomo-lungma Group." His tin ear is on loudest display when he
repeatedly has the taciturn Noel Odell call leader Mallory
"Skipper."
Probably the most egregious display of political correctness
(Does that help sell books nowadays?) is Archer's assertion that
his Mallory had actually planned to select as his summit partner not
one of the proven RGS climbers, but one of their Sherpa porters
with amazing natural climbing abilities! This decision taken when
even Australian RGS member George Finch was denied a place on
the expedition because he was not English enough. Of course the
historical realities were that while Sherpas are genetically
endowed with the ability to work hard at high altitude, none of them
had climbed mountains before the arrival of the English
explorers and their "English air" (oxygen), and they were later
taught the skill as ever more expeditions required their
services.
The final description of the Mallory and Irvine's climb into
history lacks even the faintest patina of reality. They leave their
high camp (given as at 27,300-ft--it was actually at 26,800ft) at
5AM carrying eight hours of oxygen. 10-1/2 hours later, they are
still breathing the precious gas with presumably some still
remaining for their descent. The description of the summit
pyramid--available in scores of Everest chronicles, is also a hash.
There is no knife-edged ridge after the Second Step, and there
is no "vertical rock covered with ice that never melts from year to
year" with "112-ft left to climb." And, of course,
both men make it to the top before perishing on the descent.
What is the point of this? It is called a novel, but uses actual
names, places, and events all twisted into a Disneyesque cartoon.
There is no other suggestion that this entire tale is
desperately false. To further the deception, Archer prominently
credits Audrey Salkeld, a real Everest historian, with "special
thanks." Oh how Mrs. Salkeld must feel used!
Finally, a
prominent blurb on the jacket of "Paths of Glory" reads "`A
storyteller in the class of Alexander Dumas' --The Washington
Post." A Google search and a search of the Washington Post's
archives could find no such quotation.
2.
A127 Film: Care &
Developing Suggestions
By Tom Holzel Rev 28 August 2010
Note to the
expedition which finds Irvine's VPK Camera: Get the camera to any
Eastern seaboard airport in the U.S. kept frozen (or at least
cool) without it being x-rayed, notify me at
THolzel@gmail.com , [+1
617-293-1958] and a team
of Eastman-Kodak scientists will develop the film and return it to you
in complete confidence.
Note 2: These
recommendations are starting points only, and given for technical
perspective.
They are not instructions to be relied on. We assume zero responsibility
for poor results.
Obtaining images from A-127
film stored at 27,000-ft on Mt. Everest for over 80-years depends on
many factors, only some of which will be within the control of the
researchers who retrieve the camera. Here are some of these factors,
along with the Eastman-Kodak
authored developing protocol.
1. Film
lying exposed to light is doomed. The task then is to try to save any
part of the film that has been protected.
If the camera is already broken open, some segment of
the film may yet be protected. This suggests that the body be searched
using metal-detecting wands such as used by airport security
screeners. Once a hit is made, instead of rushing to grab the precious
treasure, think for a moment about how it might be recovered without
exposing any part of it to light. Ideally, a tent or blanket could
cover the body, and then the camera be felt-for and gently removed, and
immediately wrapped in aluminum foil--all under a light-tight cover.
Indeed, if time is available and the situation lends itself to it, the
actual camera retrieval could be conducted at night.
2.
The camera may be broken, but still at
least partially light-tight because:
a.
The camera is within its leather case
b.
The camera has “broken in place,” i.e.,
the broken parts have not separated and thus the camera is still partially
light-tight.
c.
The camera is shielded underneath the body
of the climber. Thus, if Irvine is found, attempt to pat him down to
search for the camera in his clothing. Carefully search underneath
him as well. If you feel the camera within his clothing stop everything
and think:
How am I going to get the camera into light-tight material without
exposing it to light? This is a once in a life-time opportunity.
Don't blow it due to haste! Ideally you might place a tent next to the
body, and do the pat-down at night. Or cover the body in a tarp and
pat it down under the tarp. THIS IS A ONCE IN A LIFE-TIME MOMENT. DON'T
BLOW IT!!
d.
The film in the take-up reel may still be
shielded.
3.
The first step in recovering the camera
safely is to assume it may be broken but still together and
immediately and gently (but firmly)
bind it up. An ideal method is to have a few sheets of aluminum
foil available to wrap the camera in. Otherwise the camera should be
covered/wrapped with black plastic film (baggies) and wrapped in any
type of tape that will hold in cold temperatures (e.g., Velcro strips).
If no tape is available, wrap the camera inside the baggie with
string, or cloth strips or slip it inside a mitten and tie the mitten
off.
The concept is to have the camera tightly bound to prevent any movement
of possibly broken parts--which might tear-up the film.
4.
Once retrieved, every effort should be
made to keep the camera below freezing. Placing it inside a double
boot and packing the boot with snow might serve as an emergency ice
box, especially during transport to a photo lab. If it cannot be kept
below freezing,
keep it as cool as possible.
5. Recognize
that once you have the camera, try to calm down. As long as you can keep
it cold, speed is no longer of the essence. It is much more
important to follow the procedure correctly and slowly than to screw-up
quickly. If you have to wait a few days to
make
an unobtrusive exit from Base Camp, do so.
6. The
film would be completely wiped out by any checked-baggage x-ray. It
would be further damaged by hand-carry x-ray, and in danger
of being opened for inspection. Thus, the camera cannot safely be
transported by air—except for one method—it could be air-shipped in
a diplomatic bag from, say, the American Embassy in Katmandu.
7. Although
we have previously suggested that the film might be developed in a photo
lab in Katmandu, subsequent experiments
with old, exposed film indicate the process is far more delicate and
complex than outlined here. It really must be developed
in a laboratory, one small strip at a time to gauge the degree of
fogging.
8.
[No longer
recommended] Searchers should obtain the Kodak chemicals in
the US to assure that they are available and fresh, and bring
them to a trusted photo lab in Katmandu.
9. The
following are suggestions of how to handle the camera up to the Kodak
developing instructions. Note, by “the film” we are talking
about the light-sensitive (image-containing) chemical layer or
emulsion, a film-like nitro-cellulose
carrier, and a paper slip sheet or “backing” that is
not attached to the carrier but may now be stuck to it. The major
danger is that the carrier will be dried-out
and extremely brittle—and could possible shatter into splinters.
This would destroy the image. Thus it must be soaked to become
more pliable.
Removing the Film from the VPK camera

Plan
A
a.
Use an experienced developing technician to handle the film.
This is no place for a hyper-active, glory-seeking
amateur to learn the ABCs of handling film, no matter how well-meaning.
A highly experienced film technician should read and
completely understand the Kodak instructions (below). He should have all
chemicals in place, at temperature before beginning
the development procedure. (You want a fuss-budget type here, not
an artiste.)
b. IN
COMPLETE DARKNESS
(no safe light, but an infrared light source and viewer could be useful
to watch the development process) let the opened camera come up to
room temperature (60-70-degres F—not critical) in air. Then
open the camera by removing the side panel and immerse it in the
Kodak
PhotoFlo
solution at the same temperature.
c.
Agitate
the camera to get as much fluid into the camera and around the film
which is still in the take-up and supply reel chambers and stretched
across the image plane.
AFTER 15 MINUTES OF SOAKING:
d. After
15 minutes in PhotoFlo solution, begin to GENTLY extract the rolled-up
uptake roll from its chamber so that the film is completely free of
the camera. Remove the empty camera from the solution.
e. During
the 30-60-minutes of soaking, GENTLY feel if the film can be unrolled
from the uptake roll. It will probably be
spring-tight and resist unrolling, but once thoroughly wetted, at
least not break. This is where the film technician’s experienced
touch will be most useful. The point here is to get solution
everywhere into the tightly wound film to help it relax before
removing it from the camera.
f. Surgically
cut off the potentially last exposed frame of film if there is one
stretched across the film plane (using a surgeon’s
scalpel) and set it aside in its own PhotoFlo solution.
g. As
soon as the rolled-up film becomes pliable, unroll it out as best you
can, using a fixed clip at one end with a weighted clip at the
other. Set this up ahead of time. The film is 22-inches long and has
eight exposures.
h.
If the paper doesn’t want to
come off the back of the carrier while the film is being
unrolled, GENTLY see if the paper backing can be removed.
(Originally, the paper was not attached to the film carrier.)
Wherever the paper sticks to the back of the film, work in the
Photo-Flow solution to help get it off. A credit card with its edge
dulled is handy to slide between the film
and paper backing TAKE YOUR TIME. Under no circumstances
scrape the delicate emulsion side of the film.
i. There
is a risk that the paper liner might stick to the front
of the film. This is the worst case and we are in trouble.
(See PLAN E). But DON’T PANIC. If the paper is sticking to the
front, i.e., emulsion side, of the film, develop it as indicated
below, but greatly extending the developing time to let the developer
will soak through the paper carrier and begin developing the
emulsion. This is where the judgment of the experienced technician will
be invaluable. The danger here is that over-developing will
increase image fog--possibly fogging out the image itself. Anti-fog
chemicals can only do so much...
PLAN B
Even after soaking for about 20
minutes, there is still a risk that the film will not want to unroll at
all, with the result that the water bath might not be able get in to
rehydrate or develop the film. Plan B consists of putting the film and
solution into a small chamber and drawing a vacuum with an Edmunds
Scientific hand pump. This will cause the small amount of air within the
roll to be drawn out and replaced by liquid,
and might help release the bound-up roll.
PLAN C
Consider using a hypodermic
needle to inject solution in-between the layers. Slide the needle
in-between the carrier and the paper liner as you are squirting-out
PhotoFlo solution. Do this every quarter-inch around the entire roll of
film.
PLAN D
If all else fails in trying to
unroll the film, and you have hydrated for as long as 60 minutes, using
the surgeon’s scalpel, cut the film width-wise (along the axis of
the take-up reel). First make one cut to see if you can peel off a
complete circumference of that layer. If it is still stuck, make a
second cut at the opposite side, always re-immersing the film in
solution. Cut one layer at a time and immerse
in solution. Although it’s a shame to have to cut the film, the
pieces will be much more reliably developed and printed—and easily
reassembled
with PhotoShop. Plan D might become Plan B depending on
circumstances and the judgment of the film technician.
PLAN E
Paper Carrier sticks tightly to the film:
If the paper carrier sticks to the
back of the film, that's OK. Just don't ruin the image-carrying
emulsion side by trying too hard to separate the paper from the
film. Just develop as indicated below. Prints will be made back in the
U.S.
If the paper liner sticks to the
front
of the film—the emulsion side—this is bad news. But it is still be
possible to develop the film without detaching it in one of two
ways: First, by letting the developer soak through the paper carrier.
Development times would be greatly extended for the developer to
leach through the paper liner, which increases the risk of fogging the
image. If, after, say, 40 minutes, this doesn't seem to be working,
consider (groan!) cutting parallel slits a few millimeters apart in
the film itself with a scalpel in order to get developer to all
parts of the emulsion.
(Or just cut the entire film and paper into narrow slivers.) Once
the hydration process is started the film has to be developed and
fixed to completion. Again, the technician will have to be the
judge. Once developed and fixed, but not yet separated, the film would
then be brought to a lab in the US for further processing and
printing. If cutting the film into slivers is decided, the
developed slivers can still be reassembled with PhotoShop. Do not
cut the slivers in perfectly straight lines; slight variations will
enable the pieces to be more easily reassembled.
DEVELOPING THE FILM
Follow Kodak instructions below to
develop film. If after developing, the film negative comes out
featureless, or you were not able to separate the paper carrier from
the emulsion side,
do not despair yet. There are other techniques such as
autoradiographic processing that can obtain images from even the
thinnest negative.
COMPLETE SECRECY
is strongly advised as there are many rapaciously
competing claims to the camera and its images.
Consult with an experienced trade mark attorney before making the
existence of the film or its images public.
Tom Holzel
THolzel@gmail.com
+1 617-293-1958 Cell
+1 617-266-1662 Home
NOTE 03 August
2010. Much additional testing has occurred since the above
description was devised.
They no longer describe the optimum process, which has continually
evolved since 1984 when first mooted.
An exposed and undeveloped roll of A127 film from 1920's has been set
aside to conduct final testing before
embarking on the actual developing of Irvine's film.





|
3. Did
Mallory & Irvine reach the Summit? Q&A with
Tom Holzel
Reprinted with
permission from
http://www.mounteverest.net/news.php?id=17030
(MountEverest.net)
03:14 am EST Feb 19, 2008
Everest
historian Tom Holzel climbed Everest as far
back as in 1986 in search of an answer to
Mallory and Irvine's fate.
|
Summit or not?
American historian Tom Holzel
climbed on Everest as far back as in 1986 in
search of the answer. Yesterday ExWeb published
Tom's simple scenario for Mallory and Irvine's
final climb; a conclusion he reached after
assembling all the evidence.
"It's a big
disappointment. But, as a historian, one is obliged
to follow the facts no matter where they lead,"
Tom told ExWeb. Today a Q&A with the M&I researcher
who was forced to have a change of heart.
ExWeb: Tom, you told us that way back
in the early ‘70’s you predicted that Andrew
Irvine’s
body might lie below the ice ax on the snow
field at 8200m. With that one article you re-ignited
interest in this famous mystery--and you created a
storm of protest. Then, in 1980, the Japanese
Alpine Club wrote in reply to your letter to be on
the lookout for Irvine, that a Chinese porter on
Everest told them he had discovered “an English
dead” at 8100m.
TH: Yes, and that was a great
confirmation of what until then had only been a
possibility. But this exciting news was not well
received by the British climbing establishment.
ExWeb: Why not?
TH: British climbers, particularly
the old guard, were really upset that it was an
American who was hot on the spur. And having the
audacity to suggest one of their heroic failures
might have been a success. Plus my brash nature
really offended them. For one thing, I failed in the
article to pay any homage to their list of great
men, as one of these great men, Sir Percy Wynn
Harris acidly pointed out. Also, the official
Chinese Mountaineering Association repeatedly
denied that any “foreign mountaineer” had been
spotted.
ExWeb: But why should they
be angry about your turning failure into possible
success?
TH: We never got a straight answer. But when
we left for Mt. Everest in 1986 to go look, one
book reviewer deliberately broke the embargo on
Audrey Salkeld’s and my book— The Mystery of
Mallory & Irvine--to wish us the same fate as
befell Mallory & Irvine. That pretty much set
the tone for the rest of the establishment.
ExWeb: Ooops! So it wasn’t just envy…?
TH: It was rancorous pique (ed:
bitter pride). Because it was they who should have
thought
to look for the two climbers. Instead, they did
absolutely nothing to find out what happened to
Mallory & Irvine, claimed that the “English dead”
was another ‘Everest ghost,’ and complained
we were nothing less than grave robbers—all
pretty much in the same breath. It was
dog-in-the-manger at its finest: we never looked, so
how dare you?
ExWeb: Your theory was
that Mallory & Irvine surmounted the very difficult
Second Step, and then Mallory combined Irvine’s
remaining oxygen with his own in order to have
enough to reach the summit. And sent Irvine back
down by himself.
TH: Yes. At the time, that was the
only realistic assembly of facts that gave them any
chance of at least one of them having got to the
top. And still pretty much is.
ExWeb:
But you don’t feel that way anymore?
TH: The Old Guard was adamant—almost
apoplectic—that Mallory would never send Irvine back
to his death. Solo travel on Mt. Everest was just
not done, they exclaimed—especially to indulge
in a vainglorious effort to reach the top. This
while proclaiming out of the other side of their
mouths
that Mallory was unstoppable, someone who would
never turn back while there was any chance, etc.,
etc.
ExWeb: Do you still feel the
same way now?
TH. No. I knew that their solo-bit
complaint, sending a climber back alone, was
malarkey (ed: BS) —they did it on every expedition
beginning with the first one 1921 on their
return from the North Col. But they were
accidentally right about Mallory not sending Irvine
back from the Second Step. Back in 1971 nothing
was known about the actual difficulty of the Second
Step and the traverse to reach it from the First
Step. Sir Percy had eyeballed it from below and
declared it unclimbable. He also declared the Norton
Route the only way to go. Since then (1933) the
Second Step has been climbed a thousand times,
the Norton Route two or three times.
When
"Western" climbers were finally let in--the Japanese
in 1980--they learned that the traverse from the
First Step to the Second—
about 250 yards—is treacherously steep and very
scary. So critics were right when they said that
Mallory would not have sent Irvine back down
alone from the Second Step. This new fact weakened
my theory.
ExWeb: And then it was Mallory who
was found below the ice ax where you predicted, not
Irvine…
TH. Yes, and that hurt the theory
even more.
ExWeb: Why is that?
TH.
Mallory could have been returning alone from his
summit assault and just fallen to where he was
found. He would certainly have been utterly
exhausted. But his body exhibited severe rope-jerk
mottling around the waist—a clear sign that he had
received a strong rope-jerk from a falling
partner.
ExWeb: So you say he could not have
been coming down alone. He must have been descending
with Irvine?
TH. Yes, and Irvine
could not possibly have sat around above the Second
Step completely out in the open in the midst of a
snow squall for six hours to wait for Mallory to
return. Or even for an hour or two in that fearful
cold.
ExWeb: So you concluded they
never split up, and they must have returned
together?
TH. That’s the way it
looks. And the puncture wound in Mallory’s forehead
looks an awfully lot like that which would result
from his own ice ax
while trying a self-arrest.
ExWeb:
So isn’t one way to look at it that the Old Guard
was right—they didn’t climb the Second Step and they
didn’t make it to the top? Given that, isn’t
your latest theory just an explication of that?
TH. That would be painful to admit if one didn’t
look at the whole picture. Prior to my 1971 article,
the issue was essentially closed. Nothing was
explained, and the Brits felt there was no sense in
speculating further. Searching was never mooted.
They simply blamed their failure on the failure
of the ”artificial” oxygen system, which caused them
to be so late when Odell saw them. Sir Percy blamed
the two tanks on Mallory’s back as having acted
like "runners on a sledge" to speed him to his
death! It never entered their minds to look for
evidence, especially the cameras the two took.
ExWeb: And your latest scenario is…?
TH. I suddenly realized that all the
palaver about Mallory & Irvine being late was based
on two huge false assumptions: The first false
assumption
was that they were late because of oxygen
equipment problems; the second false assumption was
that when they were seen five hours late, they
were still ascending.
ExWeb: So when Odell spotted them
they were already coming down?
TH.
Clearly. If you plug that assumption into the
equation, suddenly ALL the known facts make
sense—and you don’t have to turn a blind eye to
all those clues that damage whatever your latest
success scenario is. Or make up scenarios out of
whole cloth.
ExWeb: You’re saying all
“success scenarios” have holes in them?
TH. Unfortunately, including mine. Some much
bigger than others. To get the two—or even one of
them—to the top requires you to finesse
important clues. Or contrive elaborate evidence-free
scenarios. As a historian, you simply can’t do that.
You have to simply and realistically account for
all known evidence. But, if what you want is to
establish a glorious myth, then, of course, anything
goes…
ExWeb: So now you’ve done a
complete turnabout from your original success
scenario. Are now ALL the ducks in a row?
TH. This latest theory is straight-forward,
accounts for all known facts, leaves nothing out and
doesn’t contrive complex alternate universes.
So it must be what happened. They failed and I
show exactly how and why. What a pity. I certainly
wanted to have seen them reach the top as much
as anyone.
ExWeb: This will make a lot of
Mallory & Irvine fans unhappy.
TH.
For sure. And it made a lot of editors unhappy, too.
I’ve never had a problem getting half-dozen articles
published on this subject— as long as I was
pushing the “How Mallory made it” scenario. But this
negative assessment is heresy—none of the
mountaineering press would touch it.
ExWeb: Except us?
TH. Bravo.
That’s why I’m here!
Tom on how the film in the VPK camera should be
handled and developed
In 1986,
Everest expert and co-author of the book "First on
Everest - The mystery of Mallory and Irvine," Tom
Holzel set out to find Mallory's camera. In
addition, Tom was the one to track down Zhang Junyan
and corroborated the late Chinese mountaineer's
Wang's story about the discovery of an "English
body" on the mountain.
Odell says he saw Mallory and Irvine
climbing the second step in less than five minutes.
The section has only been free-climbed a few times
since.
Oscar Cadiach (K2 Magic line, 7 main 8000ers,
Everest twice), who climbed the second step without
oxygen said, "It took me one hour to climb the
50 meters-long step. I hoped two hours more would be
enough to reach the summit, but breaking trail in
soft snow ended up with us topping-out six hours
after climbing the Step."
|
|
_______________________________________________________________________
8.
Who Owns
Irvine's VPK Camera?--A Nest of Claims
© 2010 by Dave
Green. All Rights Reserved.
(Excerpted from an unpublished article “The Copyright
that Almost Was.”
More information available at:
www.henotbusy.com
)
The
personal artifacts found on Mallory by the 1999 Mallory
and Irvine Expedition held more than mere historical
value. Eric Simonson arranged to transfer control
for all recovered artifacts to the American
Foundation for International Mountaineering,
Exploration, and Research (AFFIMER). AFFIMER
deposited the artifacts with the Washington State
Historical Society in Tacoma,
Washington for safekeeping and proper curation. As a
condition of storage at the Society, Mallory's pocket
knife, altimeter and the personal letters, along
with other materials including abandoned oxygen
canisters, were appraised by insurance underwriters,
and valued at nearly $400,000.
From the beginning, the Society began bracing for the
likelihood of lawsuits over ownership of the artifacts,
and fretted about its role. Along with the
Washington State Attorney General (counsel to the
Society), the Society and Simonson began strategizing
about possible responses. The Assistant Attorney General
structured an agreement which positioned the Society as
merely the
custodian of the artifacts, leaving to Simonson the
delicate task of broaching the thorny issue of
ownership. Simonson began with Mallory's heirs.
Mallory's living heirs were his two living children,
Claire[1]
and John, and the husband of his now deceased third
child Ruth. The heirs had been initially deeply
disturbed with the 1999 Expedition, primarily over
publication of pictures of Mallory's corpse which
had received widespread publicity and had appeared
tabloid-style in major publications. Simonson deftly
navigated around these delicate issues, making a visit
to Mallory's son John and daughter Claire. He checked
out several personal artifacts from the Society that
he and his wife brought on his visit, allowing the
family to touch and review their father's
possessions and his recorded private moments. Simonson
left the personal letters with the family. It was
undoubtedly a powerful and emotional experience, and
it led to discussions around how Mallory's artifacts
might be kept together in
a permanent collection.
The Mallory family eventually agreed to a permanent loan of
the artifacts, with the initial exception of three
personal letters found in Mallory's pocket and
fittingly close to his heart: one from his brother,
Trafford, another from his sister, Mary, and third from
an unknown woman, Stella, on whose envelope Mallory
recorded the readings of the five oxygen bottles he and
Irvine carried. Possession of the letters remained
with the family. The Mallory family later reached an
agreement to transfer ownership of Mallory's letters
to Magdalene College in the UK, for permanent display
along with other Mallory letters.
Disposition of the remaining artifacts did not come as
easy. AFFIMER discussed a transfer to RGS but insisted
upon a transfer agreement to remove any prospect of
liability. RGS, however, seemed unwilling to acknowledge
that AFFIMER had any ownership rights in the
artifacts, as a contrary position might establish a
precedent should the camera later be found. This
standstill, along
with administrative difficulties in arranging for
the procurement and preservation plans, delayed the
transfer. There was another practical reason for
RGS's delay; its receipt of the artifacts could impose
potential significant tax consequences on RGS, and
RGS need to seek a waiver from the England's custom
officials.
During the standstill between AFFIMER and the RGS over
ownership, Simonson grew tired of the delays. He sought
to push the RGS to acknowledge AFFIMER's role and
possession of the artifacts. After more than a year had
passed without the RGS taking action, Simonson and
WSHS decided that Simonson would reclaim the artifacts
from the Society and force RGS to deal with AFFIMEK.
By then, Simonson was already in the midst of the 2001
Expedition and traveling to Everest. His wife Erin
literally backed their Subaru up to the Society's
loading dock, and reclaimed a crate containing the
valuable artifacts. The gambit worked. After the tax
waiver was granted, the RGS and AFFIMER finally reached
an agreement to transfer the artifacts to the RGS,
with the condition that the Mallory family would retain
the right to reclaim certain items should the RGS
transfer ownership in the future.
Elsewhere, relatives and heirs of other 1924 Expedition
members began carefully staking their own claim, should
later expeditions recover artifacts or locate
Irvine's corpse. Sandra Noel, daughter of John Noel and
manager of his archive, promptly sent letters to the
1999 Expedition leaders that quickly drew the boundaries
of ownership of the camera and film. She insisted to the
1999 Expedition members that the terms signed by
1924 Expedition members granted Noel exclusive rights to
the photographs. Noel also unequivocally asserted
ownership of the camera and its film, and claimed that
each member of the 1924 Expedition received its cameras
and film
directly from Noel.
Sandra Noel's position was not shared amongst the other
parties. As the 1999 Expedition members announced their
plans to return to Everest to search for Irvine and
the camera, RGS issued a statement that RGS believed the
camera to come from Somervell, with ownership of the
camera belonging to Somervell's heirs. Ownership of the
film, however, was claimed by RGS. Not to be left out,
the British Alpine Club released its own statement
supporting the Irvine family. Similar to the RGS
statement, the British Alpine Club issued a code of
conduct in how Irvine's body should be treated. The
British Alpine Club repeated the Irvine heirs' clear
claim of ownership of "all personal belongings found
on the body." Irvine's heirs also sent strongly worded
letters to Simonson, claiming ownership of all his
possessions while also requesting his body be buried and
not photographed if found.
Aside from the value of the physical objects, the major
reason for the posturing of the various parties lay in
the publication rights for any recovered
photographs. Within 48 hours of finding Mallory's body
in 1999, the Expedition was deluged with offers to
purchase publication rights to the photos if camera
was found, when finding the camera seemed inevitable.
Most of the offers came from publishers, who rather
than grapple with the copyright issues were likely to
publish first and deal with claims later.
The Expedition's photographs of Mallory's body had
touched off their own minor copyright battles around the
globe. Much the same way John Noel had financed the
1924 Expedition by granting exclusive rights to various
publications, Simonson contracted with leading news
publishers for exclusive publication rights for various
territories. In the U.S., Newsweek had obtained the
exclusive publication rights. Not to be left out,
competitor Time magazine published a photo of the cover
of an Australian publication featuring the same Mallory
photographs granted to Newsweek, ostensibly claiming
fair use due to the newsworthy nature of the
photographs. The two later fought it out over
whether Time had infringed the exclusive rights granted
to Newsweek.
Members of the 1999 Expedition regrouped again with a
singular focus on finding Irvine and the camera. In
March of 2001, the 2001 Mallory and Irvine
Expedition headed back to Everest, again led by Eric
Simonson. The team did not locate Irvine or the camera,
but did find Mallory and Irvine's last camp and many
more artifacts: tents and tent poles, food and supplies,
and clothing. On the Northeast ridge, members found
a single wool mitten at 27,700 feet,
which they believed
came from Mallory or Irvine. The Expedition was
not without its own drama; the team witnessed a
Siberian climber fall horrifically to his death, and
chose to abandon their own summit bid and Irvine
search objectives in order to instead rescue climbers
and guides from another team.
The 2001 Expedition produced one fascinating outcome.
After the attempt to locate Mallory, Simonson flew with
Jochem Hemmleb to Beijing to meet with Chinese
climbers from the 1960 and 1975 Expeditions. One Chinese
member, Xu Jing, told them a startling tale that in
1960, he had come across the body of an old English
climber at about 27,230 feet. In 1960, only Mallory and
Irvine were known to be missing at that elevation.
The second member was Zhang Junyan, a member of the 1975
Chinese expedition. Zhang was a tent-mate with Wang
Hongbao, who had relayed to him during the 1975
Expedition that Wang had found an "old English dead" at
approximately 26,575 feet. Zhang first relayed this
story to Tom Holzel in 1986[2].
Wang tragically fell to his death before his story could
be described in further detail., but he had also
relayed the story to his wife, with whom the 2001
Expedition members met. An interview with Xu Jing, a
climber of the 1960 Chinese Everest Expedition
described finding the body o a foreign mountaineer
during his solo descent. Because Mallory was found
at
approximately the same height and in the same area as Xu's
observation, this led Simonson to only one conclusion:
Xu Jing had come across Irvine's body, frozen at
nearly 1000 feet higher than Mallory. Perhaps they had
made it to the top, and fallen during their descent
at night, as the mounting evidence supported.
More
Copyright Conundrums
With
several conflicting claims of ownership, the Mallory and
Irvine Expedition faced a series of nagging legal issues
each time it regrouped. It was one thing to search
and possibly find the film, but quite another to
determine the legal rights to exploit its reproduction.
Who did own the camera, its film, and the valuable
reproduction rights? Did any copyright in the film still
exist? If not, how could anyone then control the
valuable reproduction rights once the photographs had
been initially published? Simonson shared his own
frustrations with reporters in 2001, claiming that
“an intellectual property lawyer would have a field day
with this because he could possibly bill for the next 20
years researching it.”
In
truth, the legal issues were less daunting than
uncovering the facts. As Mallory, Irvine, Somervell, and
Noel were English citizens, and RGS, the MEC, and
the Alpine Club were English entities, the answer to the
copyright question would likely start and ultimately end
with English law. Moreover, the contracts signed by
Expedition members covering the 1924 Expedition photo
rights were between English citizens and English
companies, and executed in England. While the
photographs were created outside of England, the
contracts between Noel and the news publications had
reserved exclusive rights for London newspapers.
Therefore, the laws of England would be relevant in
determining initial ownership of copyright and related
rights.[3]
Prior
to the 1911 Copyright Act, when a work was created, it
lingered in a perpetual state of common law copyright
until it was published. Once published, the common
law copyright in a work vanished[4]
and works were then protected by the term of copyright
provided in the statue. The 1911 Copyright Act
eliminated the publication requirement, and protected
works upon their creation for the life of the author
plus fifty years.
Photographs, however, were protected for a much shorter
term of fifty years from their making. While photography
had been practiced since at least 1839, courts and
legislatures had been loathe to grant photographs the
same protection as other artistic works. Early
critics argued that photographers did not contribute
artistic expression: Photography "copies everything and
explains nothing, it is blind to the realm of the
spirit."[5]
Not until 1948 would the Berne Convention mandate
protection for photographs; even then, many
countries granted greater protection only for "artistic"
(as opposed to "ordinary' photographs. This prejudice
against photography would continue to be reflected
in English copyright law until 1988.
By
1988 the British government had again overhauled its
copyright law.. The 1988 Act finally changed the
duration of existing copyrights in photography to
life of the author plus fifty years (later extended to
life plus seventy years), and more pertinent,
indisputably classified photographs as "artistic works".[6]
This meant that that the previous statutory prejudice
against photographs was now eliminated, and the law
now treated photographers as owners of the copyright in
photographs they created, unless they were
specifically employed to photograph or had assigned away
their copyright ownerships by written contract.
However, copyright protection in Mallory or Irvine's
photographs had already expired in 1974 (fifty years
after their making), and the photographs would now
have fallen into the public domain. The changes in 1988
did nothing to restore expired copyrights in
photographs created before 1988. Nor did they alter the
analysis of ownership, though the issue was now moot as
copyright
had expired. Copyright ownership now seemed
irrelevant. That was, until the British legislature
again tinkered with its copyright laws in 1995,
recognizing, for the first time, a "publication right."
The
publication right was not an extension of copyright. In
fact it wasn't a copyright at all. Rather, it was a new
right, applied to works that had remained
unpublished, and it included photographs and films. The
new law "revived" many of the protections afforded
to copyright owners, and it worked like this: If a
copyright in an unpublished work had expired, but the
work was later
published for the first time, the publisher obtained
a twenty five year "publication right". To qualify for
this right, the publisher needed to be a citizen of
a European Economic Area and the photographs had to be
published first in the EEA. Yet again, the
publication right was not necessarily owned by the
author of the photograph, but by the owner of the film.
The
passage of this legislation had raised an interesting
dilemma for the 1999 and 2001 Expeditions. Under prior
laws, the finder of the camera would not have to
worry about copyright ownership claims, as the
copyrights had expired. This also meant that
Expedition members could not control later reproduction
of the found photographs, making it difficult to
guarantee any exclusive licensing or prevent
subsequent copying. But if the finder made sure the
photographs were published by an EEA publisher in an
EEA state, they could potentially enjoy twenty five
years of controlling the use and licensing of the
photographs, reaping the economic benefits. The
solution seemed simple: contract with an EEA publisher
and publish first in the EEA.
If
only the 1996 Regulations were so simple. In order to
qualify for the publication right, the Regulations
required that the first publication be "authorized".
The Regulations implied that only the legal owner of the
physical material in which the work was embodied
could legally authorize publication of the work. If the
owner did not authorize the publication, the law would
ignore
the unauthorized publication, and presumably permit
the legal owner to retain the publication right if the
work was eventually published with authorization.
The
new law only seemed to further taunt the Expedition
members: who actually owned the film? Was ownership
linked to the person who had originally supplied the
film? If so, how could anyone prove who the supplier
was? Was it Mallory, Irvine, Somervell, Noel or the
RGS? Additionally, if Noel was the supplier, did he
alone own the film rights? What about the investors
of Noel's defunct company? Once again, the details
behind the 1924 Expedition made the legal outcome
uncertain.
Deciphering the 1911 Copyright Act, it would appear that
the MEC's agreement with expedition members vested MEC
with at least the copyright in the photographs they
took, regardless of whether the MEC supplied the film.
The MEC then granted those rights to Noel. Now that
copyrights had expired, the publication rights were
arguably no longer governed by the 1911 Copyright
Act, but by the 1996 Regulations. The Regulations
awarded the publication right to the owner of the film.
The 1923 agreement between Noel and the MEC did not
grant Noel ownership of the copyrights in the expedition
member's
photographs. Rather, the agreement was structured to
provide the MEC with copyright ownership. The MEC in
turn licensed Noel "the sole rights for the
production and exploitation throughout the world of
photographs and kinematographic films of the
Expedition to Mt. Everest." The MEC reserved for
itself certain rights to use the films in internal
lectures and publications.
To
enforce Noel's exclusivity, expedition members were
required to sign a written agreement which contained the
following terms:
All photographic collections or observations that I
may make shall be deemed to belong to and to have
been taken or made by me as agent for the
Committee.
I
further bind myself not to hold any communication
with the press or with any press agency or publisher
or deliver any public lecture or allow any
photographs taken by me to be published within the
period of two years from the date of return of the
Expedition to Darjeeling except by arrangement with
Captain J.B.L. Noel.
Perhaps a court could find that the written contracts
with the MEC turned the photographs into commissioned
works. If so, the MEC's agreements may have assigned
more than just copyright to the MEC. By characterizing
the work as done "as agent for the Committee," the
agreement may have assigned all rights, including rights
of publication. Under the 1911 Act, copyright in
commissioned works would be owned by the MEC, but their
publication rights were exclusively licensed to Noel.
Would a court construe these two agreements as
granting Noel ownership of the publication, or MEC?
Would Noel's agreement with MEC cover the
publication rights created seventy two years later?
Certainly adding to the confusion on the legal analysis
was the two year embargo on publication placed upon
expedition members, who afterwards appeared free to
publish the photographs without restriction. The two
year embargo expired in June of 1926, two years
after the surviving members returned to Darjeeling. This
might imply that the MEC's rights were more limited, and
thus
Noel's exclusive license may be limited as well.
Certainly the scope of the earlier 1922 agreements with
Finch had been hotly contested. Recall that Finch
alleged that he had supplied his own film and
equipment without reimbursement. If true, this may have
vested Finch with ownership of the publication
rights to any unpublished film under the 1996
Regulations. Could heirs of the 1924 expedition member
make the same arguments as Finch? If Mallory or
Irvine's heirs or perhaps Graham Hoyland could persuade
fact finders that the film had
not been provided by Noel or the RGS, surely the
answer of who owned the British publication rights would
become more complicated than ever.
The
Copyright That Almost Was
In
the United States, where the found film would likely be
developed and where the publication rights would be
particularly valuable, the possible existence of a
U.S. copyright was relevant. A U.S. court might consider
English law in determining who owned a copyright,
but they would still apply United States law to
determine whether a copyright still existed. As with
British
copyright law, the legal analysis was no less
complicated.
Under
current U.S. law, copyright begins immediately upon the
creation of the work, or more precisely, the moment the
expression becomes defined in a tangible medium.
Applied to photography, this meant that copyright exists
once image is exposed on the film negative. Once
fixed, copyright then exists for the life of the author
plus 70 years.
A
court would need to examine the 1909 Copyright Act, the
law applicable in the U.S. at the time the Mallory and
Irvine photographs were created. Photographs did not
receive copyright protection in the United States until
the Act of March 3, 1865, following the seminal case
of
Burrow-Giles Lithographic Co. v. Saxony.
[7]The U.S. did not join the Berne
Convention until 1989; therefore under the 1909 U.S.
Copyright Act, copyright did not arise until a work was
either published with a correct copyright notice or,
if unpublished, registered with the Copyright Office.
Once published correctly or registered, copyright in
such works lasted for 28 years, and if renewed by filing
a notice of renewal for the copyright, would last
another 28 years for a total term of 56 years.
As
with English law prior to 1911, the requirements of
publication or registration under the 1906 Copyright Act
created an odd purgatory for works that had been
created, but were never published or registered. They
were not denied copyright, as either proper
publication or registration would produce a protected
copyright. However, they were not protected by U.S.
federal law until such acts occurred. Their only
protection was under state or common law copyright law,
if at all. This is precisely the condition the
unpublished Mallory/Irvine photographs remained until
1978, when the amended U.S. Copyright Act (the 1976
Act) took effect. The 1976 Copyright Act abolished
common law copyright in the U.S.[8],
conferring copyright
protection upon creation of a work. To confront the
matter of existing unpublished works, however, the U.S.
Congress
abolished state based common-law copyright and gave such
unpublished works protection under federal copyright
law.[9]
Photographs under the 1976 Act were protected for the
life of the author plus 50 years. Any copyrights in
photographs
existing on January 1, 1978, however, would have their
terms extended. But since copyright in unpublished works
did not
technically exist until publication, this created a
dilemma for the U.S. Congress.
The
U.S. Congress resolved the issue by providing additional
copyright protection for unpublished works until the end
of 2002. As an additional incentive to authors to
publish these works, the 1976 Copyright Act also
extended copyright in such works until 2047 if the
authors published the works before the end of 2002.
The
1999 and 2001 Mallory and Irvine Expeditions therefore
faced a Hobson's choice had they had located the film:
If they waited until January 1, 2003, copyright in
Mallory's or Irvine's photographs would be extinguished
in the U.S. and the Expedition would be free of
claims from the MEC or the heirs of Mallory, Irvine
Somervell, or Noel. However, no copyright would
protect the photographs from being copied, and no
exclusive publishing contracts could be enforced in the
U.S.
If
instead the photographs were released before the end of
2002, the photographs would be protected until 2047,
but the copyright might not belong to the 1999 or 2001
Expedition. Instead, Somervell, Noel, Mallory or
Irvine's heirs would be left to fight it out. This
Catch-22 failed to materialize as the 2001 Expeditions
did not locate the camera before the end of 2002,
effectively putting an end to a copyright that almost
was.
Unless, of course, the unpublished photographs were
determined by a court to be works made for hire. Like
the British 1911 Act, the U.S. 1909 Act also had a
bias against photographers as owners of their copyright.
Under the 1909 Act, employers and commissioning
parties owned the copyrights created by their
photographers[10],
but the 1909 Act did not define "employer" or
"work-for-hire". Courts looked to the general common law
of agency and at least ten relevant "agency" factors
to determine whether a photographer was an employee or
an independent contractor, to determine whether a
party was commissioned to produce a work.[11]
Because Mallory and Irvine had considerable freedom and
discretion over if, what, when, and how they were
supposed to photograph works, it is highly unlikely
a U.S. court would find them to be employees, and even
so, would they be employees of John Noel, or
employees of the Expedition? No, a court awarding
copyright to Noel or the MEC would more likely be
willing to find the photographs to be "commissioned
works" (if at all) under either U.S. or British law"[12],
and the contract Mallory and Irvine signed indicated
that the Expedition was the commissioning party, with
the publication rights exclusively licensed to
Noel.
As
the MEC had assigned those rights exclusively to Noel,
the distinction as to the commissioning party was
largely without a difference. Unpublished
photographs determined to be works made for hire under
the 1909 U.S. Copyright Act are protected from 120
years from creation.[13]
Therefore, it is entirely possible that if a court found
the photographs to be commissioned works, at least
in the U.S., copyright in the Mallory or Irvine
photographs continues to exist until 2044. If so, Noel's
heirs may
be the party that controls any remaining copyrights
to the photographs at least within the U.S.
Finders Keepers?
Even
if the heirs of the 1924 Expedition members could
resolve the ownership dispute as between them, there
would remain the matter of rights held by the finder
of the camera. The ultimate conclusion of who rightfully
owned the camera and the film could determine who
owned the publication rights under British copyright
law. On this issue, there would be no absence of
applicable law, only the thorny question of which
country's law to apply.
"Finder's Keepers", one of the most repeated yet
misinterpreted phrases applied to found property, was
originally developed in feudal times to determine
the rightful owner of buried Roman treasure. The rule
has been significantly altered by courts throughout
the centuries, and the laws around found property are
largely based on English common law. Generally,
ownership of found property depends upon whether the
property was lost, mislaid, abandoned, or embedded.
Property is "lost" if the owner parts with it
involuntarily and unintentionally, through neglect,
carelessness, or inadvertence and does not know the
whereabouts.
[14]"Mislaid property" is that which
the owner has intentionally set down in a place where he
can retrieve it, but then forgets where he put it.
"Abandoned property" is where the owner has discarded or
voluntarily forsaken the property with the intention
of terminating his ownership, but without vesting
ownership in any other person. Finally, embedded
property is personal property which has become a
part of the natural earth (like pottery or a sunken
wreck, buried or partially buried in the ground).
Only lost property necessarily involves the element of
involuntariness; the other four categories require that
the true owner voluntary and intentionally place the
property where someone eventually finds it.
The
distinction between the various types of found property
determines the rights of the owner versus the finder.
Finders of lost property usually prevail against all
but the rightful owner, regardless of where the property
is found. Finders of mislaid property may be
required to turn it over to the owner of the premises
who prevails against all but the rightful owner. Finders
of abandoned property prevail against all others,
including the original owner, regardless of where the
property is found. Finally, finders of embedded
property lose out to the owner of the premises on which
the property is found. While a jury decides the
facts of a dispute, the characterization of the found
property is decided by a court.
[15]
Certainly, the oxygen bottles discarded by Mallory and
Irvine would fall into the "abandoned" category, as
oxygen canisters were routinely tossed aside when
empty. It is highly unlikely, however, that Mallory or
Irvine intended to part with the camera, and
therefore it would fall either into the category of lost
or mislaid property. Unless the camera was found on
Irvine's body,
determining ownership as between Mallory's and
Irvine's heirs would prove difficult, because it may not
be clear which of the two climbers lost his camera.
And if Somervell's story to his nephew is believed,
Graham Hoyland may be the rightful owner
of the camera.
The
owner of the camera may not necessarily own the valuable
film inside. While all signs point to Noel as the likely
provider of all film for the expedition, such was
not the case in 1922 where Finch and others had brought
their own camera and film. Certainly Mallory was
known to have brought his own camera and perhaps his own
film.
Nepal
introduced an additional complication into the question
of property ownership: after the widespread publicity
surrounding the found Mallory artifacts, climbers
seeking access to Everest from the south are required to
obtain a climbing permit from Nepal, and Nepal
officials revised the permit and rules following the
1999 Expedition in order to seek control over artifacts
found on
Everest. However, Irvine's body and the camera are
actually be located within Tibet, now under Chinese
control, raising the possibility that the
Nepalese permit may not control property found on
Tibetan soil, but may attempt to assert control if the
artifacts are brought into Nepal, as may be necessary
for explorers who depart from Kathmandu.
Little had Eric Simonson known in 2001 that the
challenge in determining ownership had little to do with
the applicable law, and everything to do with the
cloudy facts of the original 1924 Expedition.
The
Search for the Camera Continues
Despite more than three additional known attempts to
locate Irvine's body, it remains today lost somewhere on
Everest. Graham Hoyland, who has never doubted his
uncle's story, now thinks that the camera probably lies
buried under tons of snow and ice at the bottom of
the Rongbuk glacier. He recently made a summit attempt
to Everest wearing an exact replica of the climbing
outfit worn by Mallory, in an effort to prove that
Mallory could have made it to the summit and survived to
climb
back down. His experiences demonstrated the
effectiveness of the materials worn by Mallory, and
again added further support to the premise that
Mallory reached the top of Everest.[16][17]
To
avoid the added complication of the Nepalese permits,
newer expeditions seeking the camera have been very low
key. With tons of equipment to inspect, Nepalese
officials would be hard pressed to identify any specific
artifacts, unless expedition leaders had called
media attention to their search.
Considerable competition also remains amongst various
climbing groups to locate Irvine's body and the camera,
often leading to unintentionally humorous results.
In 2004, Hoyland and the BBC group again found
themselves on Everest searching for the camera, at
the same time as two of the original 1999 Expedition
members who were still searching for Mallory and Irvine
artifacts. The reason for both groups presence on the
mountain was publicly disguised. Yet as the BBC realized
that the other group was actually quite high on the
mountain and in the search area where Irvine's body is
thought to lie, Eric Simonson suddenly received a
hurried email from BBC producers. They suggested
potential collaboration between the two, including
sharing the outcome of any successful find.
The
failure to find Irvine and the camera has not diminished
public interest in Mallory and Irvine's summit attempt.
Exhibition of the artifacts from the 1999 and 2001
Mallory and Irvine Expeditions enjoyed tremendous
success. The WSHS exhibit set attendance records,
and a previous exhibit by the National Geographic
Society at their Explorer's Hall in Washington, DC,
enjoyed equally large audiences during its brief
display. Members of both the 1999 and 2001 expeditions
published numerous successful books, each detailing
their experiences and providing their own analysis of
Mallory and Irvine's potential success.3
The
many surviving photographs of the 1921, 1922 and 1924
attempts are scattered across several collections.
Sandra Noel manages the collections of her father
and produced a book, "Everest Pioneer: The Photographs
of Captain John Noel". She also manages the access
rights to Noel's 1924 film of the failed summit attempt,
"Epic of Everest" which is now in the public domain
within UK and the United States.
George Finch's photographs are now held by the George
Ingle Finch collection. Photographer Bentley Beetham,
a photographer who was not directly under Noel's
control but who shot photographs for the military,
provided many
photographs which are now held by RGS, who also
administers Howard Somervell's photos. Edward Norton's
photographs are held and administered by the British
Alpine Club. Reproductions and prints of these various
photographs are found in many libraries and
collections.
Some
day, climbers may ultimately locate the body of Sandy
Irvine, likely to be as well preserved as Mallory's.
As they search his body, they may locate a small Vest
Pocket Kodak, holding the silver colored cartridge of
undeveloped film. Taking pains to place the film
cartridge in a properly lined shielded storage box,
expedition leaders could publicly announce their
find, or more likely following a well-rehearsed plan to
quietly remove the film to insure it does not fall
into the hands of unfriendly custom officials who may
delay its exploitation, or worse, destroy the film's
unexposed images. The Chinese in particular do not want
their first ascent of Everest from the north in 1960
plucked away by a possible Mallory & Irvine first
ascent.
They
will quickly transport the box to a waiting developing
lab, and as the film is carefully thawed, exposed and
the negatives developed, the images may reveal one
of the world's great conquests, or perhaps cast only
more
doubt on whether Mallory or Irvine made it to the
summit. Lawyers for various heirs and claimants will
ready their motions, and perhaps (though unlikely)
the world may wait a bit longer before the first
photograph is published as the various sides argue
their various positions and facts.
But
hopefully one day, a photograph will end the debate.
Regardless of the legal outcome of ownership, the
photograph may provide the answer as to the success
of two pioneers who had but one goal for which they gave
their lives. To make it to the top of the world.
Authors Acknowledgement:. The author is grateful for the
assistance, information, feedback and kind ears provided
by Graham Hoyland, Charlie Borst, Wade Davis, Sandra
Noel, Eric and Erin Simonson, George Martin of
EverestNews.com, UK attorney Ian Craig, the staff of
The Washington State Historical Society, Ian) Professor
Tom Fischer, author Gary Kinder, and of course, the
encouragement of my wife Tanya who indulged my
fascination with this story for several years.
__________________________________________________________________________________
Endnotes
[1]
Claire has since died.
[2]
The Mystery of Mallory & Irvine, Holzel &
Salkeld, 1986.
[3]
See generally Bridgeman Art Library. Ltd. v.
Corel Corgi 36 F.Supp.2d 191 (S.D.N.Y.) 1999
regarding discussion of conflicts of laws in
copyright cases.
[4]
Donaldson v. Bleckett, (1774) 2 Brown's
Perogative Cases; Cobbett's Parliamentary
History XVII 954.
[5]
Naomi Rosenblum, A World Naomi Rosenblum, A
World History of Photography 210 (3d ed.1997)
[6]
The 1911 Act also classified photographs as
artistic works, but treated photographs
differently when addressing ownership and
copyright duration, whereas the 1988 Act
dispensed with such prejudices against
photography, treating it now the same as
other artistic
[7]
111 U.S. 53, U.S. 1884. More than 100 years
after Burrow-Giles, the understanding of the
extent of copyright protection for
photographs continues to evolve. See Mannion v.
Coors Brewing Co., 377 F.Supp.2d 444 (S.D.N.Y.,
2005), and SHL Imaging, Inc. v. Artisan
House. Inc., 117 F.Supp.2d 301 (S.D.N.Y., 2000)
for a thorough discussion of the history and
basis for copyright protection of
photographs in the U.S.
[8]
Pre-1972 sound recordings remained protected by
state law.
[9]
U.S.C. Section 303
[10]
17 U.S.C. Section 26 (1909 Act)
[11]
Community for Creative Non-Violence v. Reid,490
U.S. 730 (1989).
[12]
U.S. Courts will often look to the country with
the most significant relationship to the
property and the parties in determining
which law to apply, if British law were applied,
it is highly likely the MEC would be deemed to
be the copyright owner. See Itar-Tars
Russian News Agency v. Russian Kurier, Inc, 153
F.3d. 82 (1998)
[13]
Originally protected for 100 years, the U.S.
Congress added an additional 20 in the Copyright
Term Extension Act of 1998.
[14]
Corliss v. Wenner, 34 P.3d 1100, 1103 (2001)
[15]
Courts have been historically reluctant to hold
that found human remains and their related
artifacts are “abandoned” and therefore owned
by the finder. See e.g., Charrier v. Bell, 496
So. 2d 601, Louisiana Appellate Court, 1986
citing
Blancherot v. Couilhy, Bordeaux 6. Aug.
1806, 38 Dalloz Jurisprudence Generale, Sec. 186
n.1 (1857).
_____________________________________________________________________________________________________
Claims of
Irvine
Family, Alpine Club and Royal Geographical Society
http://www.alpine-club.org.uk/alpineclub/bodies.htm
The Alpine Club makes the
following recommendations to those seeking to find the body of
Sandy Irvine who lost his life with George Mallory on Everest's North Ridge in
1924.
Dead climbers
found on mountains naturally evoke strong and often conflicting
emotions but especially feelings of sadness and respect.
Such are the mythic proportions of the Mallory/Irvine tragedy that despite
natural reverence and respect for their bodies, historical investigations
will inevitably intrude. The Irvine family has therefore approached the
Alpine Club for help in identifying appropriate conduct to be observed should
Sandy Irvine's body be found.
CONSULTATION
1.1
To consult with the
Irvine family through John Irvine,
Chairman of the Sandy Irvine Trust as follows:
1.2
periodically before departing for Everest
1.3
from the
mountain before information is given to anyone else, particularly the media and
any sponsors and also
1.4
immediately on return from the mountain and then shortly after to
submit a full and comprehensive report
1.5
John
Irvine's address is: Email
John.Irvine@dial.pipex.com
THE BODY
2.1
Expeditions finding the body of Sandy Irvine should bear in mind that the Irvine
family would prefer, as does the Alpine Club, that his body be
left in peace, especially as there are still relatives alive who knew him.
The family, however, recognise that there are many people interested in the
fate of Mallory and Irvine and that finding a camera might be the best
indication as to whether or not they actually reached the summit of Everest.
They are therefore facing up to the possibility of Sandy Irvine's body being
found and request it to be treated with the utmost respect.
2.2 The body,
if found, should be searched with the greatest care to avoid damaging the frozen
body, as happened to that of George Mallory during
a second search for more artefacts, a few days after the first encounter.
2.3
A major effort should be made for the body to be committed and covered with
stones if at all practicable.
2.4
The body should thereafter remain untouched. In
Britain and many
other countries it is illegal to disinter a body without a Court Order.
This practice should be respected in the mountains.
PERSONAL BELONGINGS
3.1
The family
lay claim to all personal belongings found on the body and request they are
returned to the Trustees. The trust exists to preserve
the good name of Sandy Irvine; to look after archival material and artefacts
relating to his life and death and ultimately to benefit mountaineering
charities
by making donations from any monies coming into the trust from reproduction fees
and loan fees.
3.2
The Alpine Club fully
supports the family's claim that all personal effects be returned to them as
that is their request. It is also logical to have all
artefacts in one place and convenient for mountaineering historians.
PHOTOGRAPHY
4.
Published photographs in the media or in books of any mountaineer's body can be
most distressing to surviving relatives. The Alpine Club
therefore strongly supports the family's request that they are consulted before
any photographs of Sandy Irvine's body are published and that the family
have the right to veto any image for publication for whatever reason.
Those seeking to
find Sandy Irvine's body and camera may do so in a genuine, if obsessive spirit
of enquiry. They may, if successful in their search,
be taken by surprise at the media's insatiable desire for images of the body and
an account of the gruesome details. They should be prepared for this
eventuality and avoid acting in a distasteful way that may later be regretted.
It should always be upper most in the minds of those who find the body that
the media tend to be anonymous and unaccountable, as well as distant from the
family and they exist primarily to sell their product. It is one thing to
have
a photograph showing the final resting place, on Everest, of Sandy Irvine and
George Mallory in a definitive book on the subject or in an alpine journal,
but quite another to have images splashed across the pages of the popular press
for promotional purposes and financial gain.
Doug Scott - President
Patrick Fagan - Vice President
Martin Wragg - Vice President
Paul Braithwaite - Vice President 1999-2000
22 January 2001
___________________________________________________________________________________
RGS Claims
http://web.archive.org/web/20020421005942/http://www.rgs.org/templ.php?page=15med002
(posted 15.05.2001)
Following the discovery of George
Mallory’s body in 1999 a number of people are currently searching for the body
of his companion, Sandy Irvine,
who lost his life at the same time as George Mallory on the flanks of Mount
Everest in 1924.
It is possible that the discovery
of Sandy Irvine’s body and personal belongings, including the camera he is
thought to have had with him at the time,
will reveal whether he and George Mallory reached the summit of
Mount Everest.
The Royal Geographical Society
(with IBG) recognises that such a discovery would critically alter the history
of exploration and mountaineering
in the
Himalayas. The Society has also been in close
liaison with the families of Mallory and
Irvine. Accordingly the Society
wishes to make available
the following information;
1.
The body of
Sandy Irvine, if found, should be treated with the respect properly due to the
dead, and the Society endorses, without reservation,
the recommendations in the press release issued by the Alpine Club on 22 January
2001.
2.
The
camera, which it is thought Mallory and
Irvine carried with them on their
last climb was a vest-pocket Kodak camera.
The Society believes that the camera belongs to the heirs and assigns of Howard
Somervell, a member of the 1924 Expedition.
3.
Any
photographic film found in or near the camera or Sandy Irvine’s body is the
property of the Royal Geographical Society (with IBG).
The Royal Geographical Society
(with IBG) asks that all those involved in the quest to discover the full story
of Mallory and Irvine’s attempt to reach
the summit of Everest in 1924 have regard to the following guidelines;
1.
All information
discovered about the fate of Mallory and
Irvine should be communicated first
to their respective families and to the
Royal Geographical Society (with IBG).
2.
No
information should be communicated to any
representative of the press prior to
consultation with the families and the Royal
Geographical Society (with IBG).
3.
Personal
belongings should be kept safe and returned to their owners’ families.
4.
Photographic film, if found, should be returned to the Royal Geographical
Society with IBG).
- ends -

__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Contract Terms Governing the Ownership of
Irvine’s VPK Camera Images
By Tom Holzel
Rev 12 Oct 2010
The claims
of family members, the (British) Alpine Club and
the Royal Geographical Society regarding
ownership of Andrew Irvine’s Vest Pocket
Camera (VPK) and any possible images therein are
quite clear: they demand everything found on the
mountain by anyone. What is less clear is
on what basis these claims are being made.
Let us look at the contract the RGS and the AC
signed in exchange for funding from Captain John
Noel
for the 1924 Expedition.
The second
paragraph of the Agreement between the Mount
Everest Committee (MEC) of the Royal
Geographical Society (RGS) and the
Alpine Club (AC) reads in part:
In consideration of the payments
[£8,000, equal to $400,000 today] to be made by
Captain John Noel to the Committee as hereafter
mentioned the Committee grant to Captain John
Noel the sole rights for the production and
exploitation throughout the World of
photographs and Kinematographic films of the
expedition to Mount Everest in the year of
One thousand nine hundred and twenty four
Together with the control of public lecturing
subject to Clause 9 hereof. [Emphasis added.]
Paragraph 8
states that the Committee may itself use Noel’s
photographs “for illustrations in the journals
of the Royal Geographical Society,
the Alpine Club, the Official Book of the
Expedition, private exhibitions of photographs
and lectures at meetings of the Royal
Geographical Society
and the Alpine Club but”--
…the Committee will not at any
time dispose of any such [photographic] prints
or slides to the public press or organize public
lectures for profit.
The
paragraph 9 referred to above states that
expedition members may give lectures “provided
they are delivered by arrangement with Captain
Noel.”
This agreement to be enforced for two years
after the return of the expedition. After two
years, i.e., mid-1926, the expedition members
(not their heirs)
would be permitted to give public lectures
and allow their photographs to be published
without Committee
permission.
Thus, the
rights to the photographs contained within
the VPK camera assumed to be with Andrew Irvine
fall under the provisos of belonging solely
to Captain Noel but they may be used for public
lectures by the expedition member who took
them. In addition, the expedition members
are acting
as agents for the Committee, thus giving the
Committee the rights to the photos in order to
sell those rights to Captain Noel.
The agency
clause is found in the “Schedule”—a contractual
agreement that all expedition members were
obliged to sign, which stated:
All photographs, collections or
observations that I may make shall be deemed to
belong to and have been taken or made by me
as agent for the Committee.
Thus, in
paragraph two the Committee assumes an ownership
of expedition member photographs the photos that
it then sold to Captain Noel
without any limitation. However, The Schedule
allows expedition members to publish
their own photos after two years.
In short,
Captain Noel (and his heir) has sole world
rights to the photos except that Andrew Irvine
—not the RGS or The AC--had the right to publish
them.
Nowhere
in the agreement is there even a suggestion that
the RGS or the Alpine Club were given rights to
the VPK photos taken by Irvine
or by any
expedition member. Nowhere in the
contract are any ownership rights passed
to the expedition members who took the photos as
they were merely “agents for
the Committee”--which sold these rights to
Captain Noel.

In addition,
Graham Hoyland claims that he was told by his
uncle, Howard Somervell, that he had loaned his
VPK to Mallory
just prior to his final
attempt. It is known that both climbers took a
VPK camera. Hoyland first claimed all rights to
Mallory's camera. It was not found, so
now he claims ownership
of Irvine's camera and its eventual VPK
photos. Clever. This, in spite of the near
certainty that all VPKs were supplied to
the
climbers out of the pool of 14 cameras that
Captain Noel brought along and handed out to the
climbers.
The
Cosmic Questions then are:
1.
Having sold all photo
rights to Captain John Noel, on what legal basis
do the RGS and the AC now claim any rights at
all
to the VPK images?
2.
Why have the photos taken
by expedition members Colonel Norton and Dr.
Howard Somervell been held exclusively by the
RGS
and the AC and administered by them to their
profit?
3. On what contractual
basis does Graham Hoyland, who first claimed all
rights to Mallory's camera, now claim all rights
to Irvine's camera?
Although none of these questions
have ever been addressed by the claimants, this
has not prevented them from acting as if they
were
rightful owners. Eric Simonson, leader of the
1999 Everest expedition which found Mallory’s
body was harassed by RGS obduracy
for over a year over the ownership of the
Mallory artifacts. Although the likelihood of
summit photos being contained within Irvine’s
VPK are slim to none, if present, they would
document a huge historical reversal—worth a
fortune--and create a feeding frenzy
by heirs and organizations that would make many
lawyers rich--and cause Mallory & Irvine to turn
in their graves in disgust
at the rank avarice of it all.
10. Mallory & Irvine
Through the Yellow Band
(Added 09 Sept 2011)
1.
Mallory & Irvine’s Route through the Yellow
Band
The
route of the pre WW-II Everesters through
the Yellow Band has never been described.
But some sentences in Hugh Ruttledge’s
expedition book
Everest, 1933, raise some interesting
notions:
…[L. R.] Wager by a last
effort dragged himself up to the ridge east
of the first step. He is the only climber
who has looked down the
stupendous, ice-clad south-east face of the
mountain. The ridge here he found to be
extremely narrow and indented. (P.141,
emphasis added.)
If
Ruttledge says that Wager in 1933 is the
only person ever to have viewed the
Kangshung Face, he is also saying that none
of the 1924 climbers saw it either.
This fact tell us that Norton and Somervell
in 1924 also did not see the Kangshung Face.
In other words, although they all began
their climb through the
Yellow Band from the same starting point—the
modern route (blue line) beginning at 8300m.
But the above description seems to indicate
that they did not,
as modern climbers do, then ascend all the
way to the crest of the NE Ridge (“Mitten”)
and follow it to the First Step. (See Fig.1.
below.) Instead, the
pre WW-II Brits must all have continued the
diagonally rising traverse from the 1933 C-7
(green line) to the broad ledge that seems
to lead directly to the
First Step escarpment. This raises some
interesting points:
-
This part of the route (green line) has
never been searched for artifacts even
though it would seem that four climbers
of 1933, and Norton and Somervell
(and probably Mallory & Irvine) must
have followed it in 1924.
-
When Norton & Somervell returned as the
first to climb through the Yellow Band,
they would certainly have given Mallory
& Irvine detailed route
instructions to follow. Since Mallory
was focused on getting to and climbing
the Second Step—not exploring various
ways to get to it—he would
certainly have followed Norton’s
directions.
-
Since Irvine’s ice ax, was found 60-feet
(six stories!) below the crest of
the ridge, directly on the route
Wager & Harris took, it is clear
they were all
climbing the same route, and it did not
follow the crest of the NE Ridge.
-
This means Mallory & Irvine would have
been following the same route down when
the snow squall started and the Ice Ax Fall occurred.

Fig.
1.
The modern route (blue line)
rises vertically from the 8300m Camps,
swings right and then goes vertical again to
reach the crest of the NE Ridge
at the “mitten location.”
The
Ice Ax Fall occurred at the green dotted line.
Irvine continued to follow their ascent
route (red line) and slipped again,
falling 85-ft (green dots) to be wedged in place in the
“Red Slash” rock cleft. Xu Jing
followed the same descent, but then "took a
more direct route"
which must have been the orange line
passing directly by the Red Slash which is
on his left. All photos
© BSFSwissphoto AG, Zurich unless otherwise noted.
-
This also means that after the Ice Ax
Fall, Irvine was following the exact
same route. Mallory must have fallen far
enough to make climbing up
to regain the route
infeasible—especially given his serious
rope-jerk injury involving broken ribs
making breathing excruciatingly painful,
and the
blinding snow squall.
-
Just as Mallory slipped due to the new
snow cover, so must have Irvine 50 yards
farther along.
2.
Mallory & Irvine Did Not Attempt the Second
Step
There is
another major realization. We have
suggested that the reason Mallory & Irvine
were spotted so late in the day was because
they were climbing
the First Step on their descent.
But why? It can be a tricky 15-30 minute
clamber, not an exercise tired climbers
would normally undertake after they
have already turned back.
A close
look at the topography of the First-Second
Step escarpment reveals an unappreciated
aspect. If the two climbers had indeed
climbed to the base
of the Second Step crux as nearly everyone
believes, they would have returned (dotted
green line). But if they did indeed want to
take photos from the top
of the First Step—they would clearly have
climbed to it via the “First Step Short-Cut
(orange dots). In that case, Odell couldn’t
have seen them—his view
of them would have been blocked by the step
itself, nor is there a patch of snow over
which to have passed in order for them to be
seen at all.
Thus, if
Odell did see them climbing the First Step,
it could only have been if they were
climbing it from the east (left) side,
crossing the snowy patch that
is very visible from his viewpoint. But this
means they never got up to the modern
approach to the Second Step.

Fig. 3. To
reach the base of the Second Step crux,
climbers must follow the blue line traverse
above the “Norton Route.” If, on their
return from the
Second Step, Mallory & Irvine had wanted to
climb to the top of the First Step, they
would have done so via the “First Step
Shortcut (orange dotted line)
—and been invisible to Odell because
the Step blocks his view of the shortcut.
But if they had climbed the first Step after
returning for the Norton route,
they would have crossed the snow patch
(solid green line) and been visible to Odell
below.
It also
means they had to have been doing something
in the intervening two to three hours from
the time they would have reached the First
Step on
their ascent, to the time they were sighted
on it by Odell at 12:50. What could they
have been doing?
Ruttledge gives us another clue from the
1933 Everest expedition:
Two more points may be noted:
firstly, it is very doubtful if any of the
men who went really high could have repeated
their performance,
though this may be ascribed, at least in
part, to the long period they were forced to
spend on and above the North Col Even Smythe
and
Shipton were subject to the general loss of
condition and weight.nd
Mallory was by now exhausted. This was his
second assault,
the first one with Bruce only a week earlier
having been aborted at 25,500-ft by bad
weather and, we presume, Mallory’s final
realization
that without oxygen, he just wasn’t going to
cut it. In his diary he wrote:
-
April 30th : I’m very
fit—perhaps not just so absolutely a
strong goer as in ’21, but good enough,
I believe—and anyway I can think of
no one in this crowd stronger...
-
May 27th: (Mallory fell into
a crevasse and has to hack his way out.)
That cutting against time at the end of
the day after such a day just about
brought me to my limit. … My one
personal trouble has been a cough. It
started a day or two before leaving Base
Camp but I thought nothing of it.
In the high camp it has been the devil.
Even after the day’s exercise I have
described I couldn’t sleep, but was
distressed with bursts of coughing
fit to tear one’ guts—and a headache and
misery altogether; besides which of
course it has a very bad effect on one’s
going on the mountain.
-
June 2nd: Irvine writes:
“George was very tired after a very
windy night, and Geoff had strained his
heart.”
Let us
make the assumption that when
Mallory & Irvine arrived at the base of the
First Step after five hours of climbing,
they, too, were
appalled at the physical and technical difficulty of the approach
to the Second Step’s crux, and the prospect
of then having to climb its 15-foot cliff
with
no protection whatever.
What would have run through Mallory’s mind?
So
convinced was he of its value, Mallory may
well have figured that it had been a simple
lack of oxygen that prevented Norton from
reaching the
summit pyramid. Norton admitted that the
weather was perfect, the terrain gradual,
yet he could only achieve an ascent rate of
100 vert-ft/hr as he
approached his high point. As important,
unlike the Second Step route, Norton has
encountered no insurmountable
obstacles. Recall that in his final
note on June 7th to Noel, Mallory
had left open which route he was
considering:
It won’t be too early to
start looking out for us either crossing the
rock band under the pyramid or going up
skyline at 8 p.m.
By
“crossing the rock band” he meant he would
be following the Norton Route—and notice
it was mentioned first—and by “going up
skyline”
he meant he would crest the ridge via the
Second Step. it seems very likely that once
Mallory reached the base of the First Step,
he too would
have decided to follow Norton’s
footsteps--the easy appearing route into the
Great Couloir--secure in the knowledge that
he and Irvine were carrying
on their backs the cure for the debilitating
effects of altitude--simple exhaustion--that
stopped Norton in his tracks.
3.
Mallory & Irvine’s Highest Point
But the
footing would have been no better than when
Norton made the attempt—sugary snow covering
the down-sloping tile-like rock.
Without handholds or pitons, the only belay
was a suicidal roping-up offering little
help and the near certainty that in a slip,
one falling climber would
pull the other down with him. Also, the
facemask of the very oxygen apparatus that
was to help them up interfered with the
downward view. It was
difficult to see ones feet and where to
place them.
So the
two probably got as far as Norton did—or,
because of the oxygen--perhaps a bit
farther. But the oxygen could not make up
for the treacherous
footing. At some point, Mallory would have
realized that they two were ascending no
faster then Norton. And Mallory had the
inexperienced Irvine in tow
to worry about. So probably around noon on
June 8th, Mallory realized they
had reached their highest point.
The
question then arises, what would they have
done with their cumbersome oxygen apparatus?
Since the face mask interferes with the
user’s view
down would the two have removed their oxygen
apparatus and left them in place in order to
climb out of the Great Couloir unencumbered?
It is possible, and would be a certain
marker of their highest point. A search of
the Everest aerial photograph reveals the
image of an object lying in
the Great Couloir that could possibly (20%?)
be an oxygen rig. Like all such images at
the very threshold of legibility, it is even
more likely to be a flat
shiny rock. The only grounds for thinking it
might be a 1924 oxygen system are:
-
It is in the right spot if Mallory or
Mallory & Irvine took the Norton Route
-
The image is rectilinear
-
The image seems to be of the right size
Nevertheless, it is all too easy to seek
something, find a possible object, and
immediately stop looking—and be totally
wrong. However, because a
good case can be made for Mallory & Irvine
climbing into the Great Couloir, and the
fact that no trace of their oxygen systems
have been found,
it seems prudent to at least follow their
mooted footsteps and search the route for
artifacts.

Fig
4. A shiny
rectilinear object at the limits of film
resolution lying high in the Great Couloir.

Fig
5.
Super Blow-up of the suspect object.
In
retrospect, Odell's claim of seeing Mallory
& Irvine surmounting the Second Step had
misled me for decades. The surprising truth
is that
Mallory never mentioned the Second Step in
any of his writings. It
is we historians who have seized upon that
route, even calling it
"the Mallory Route." And all
because of Odell's apocryphal vision. But he himself
was mute on the subject. The only mention of
which route
he intended to take was in his
note in which
he mentioned the Norton Route first, and
only secondly gave a vague reference to
getting up onto
the ridge by an undefined
location.
Like most historians, I seized on the Second
Step to have M & I conform to Odell's vision
of them--and then
deepened the error by noted
Mallory's
preference for ridge climbs as opposed to
face climbs. In other words, we found what
we wanted to see
based on only the slimmest
evidence.
(This
idea, that Mallory & Irvine did not even
attempt the Second Step was always the opinion of
the pre-WW II British climbing community
(which I
vigorously
poo-pooed) and is also the opinion of
David Breashears and Conrad Anker.)
So, in
stead of holding the traditional belief that
Mallory & Irvine had attempted the Second
Step, and were seen by Odell surmounting it,
I have come completely around to the
opposite view. I claim they by-passed the
First & Second Step escarpment and continued
on
via the Norton route. At some point the
climbing became too treacherous due to
uncertain snow-covered footing. Their
oxygen, which enabled
them to maintain a higher climbing speed,
seriously detracted from their ability to
see their footing step by step. Thus, they
probably abandoned
the attempt at about the same location as
Norton’s.
But,
what to show for their effort? There are no
useful terrain shots to be taken from the
open book of the Great Couloir. And once
they gave up,
they would be anxious to get back to a safer
spot. Returning to the safety of the base of
the First & Second Step escarpment--the
”Highway”
—they would have had time to mull over how
to make the best of their situation: They
would climb the First Step (a mini First
Ascent) and photograph
the continuation of the NE ridge, the Second
Step terrain and the vast Kangshung Face.
They would at least be bringing something
home.
Climbing
the First Step on their descent makes
enormous sense—and satisfied me for a while
until I pushed it further and realized that
they could not have been seen climbing the
First Step if they had just returned from
the Second. So they never got to the
Second Step.
But there were still several hours to
account for. And thus, the
idea that they had pushed the Norton route
as far as they could go
before also turning back began to make
perfect sense.
Should
this have been the case, if Irvine’s camera
is found, we should expect to see a photo of
Mallory leading the way out of the far side
of the
Great Couloir, but not much farther. And, of
course, the final views would have been from
the top of the First Step, looking up the NE
Ridge in hopes
of plumbing its topographical mysteries, a
view of Makalu glowering across the valley.

Fig.
6. The whole
Yellow band showing the 1924 C-6, (lower left)
the location of Mallory's body (lower middle)
and the routes through the Yellow Band.
The NE Ridge slopes more steeply upward than
shown here in order to fit everything in.
It is not know if M & I took the the solid green
line to the Longland
Traverse (which seems likely) or took the more
difficult (and less obvious) dotted line to the
beginning of the modern route. Montage based on
BSF SwissPhoto AG, Zurich.
The “mitten” is a crude, possibly
pre-WW-II mitten discovered there by
Jake Norton in 2001. If so, it raises
the question of how it got there.
One researcher believes it was lost by
Irvine on his descent and sought to find
Irvine in nearby cracks. However,
Everest expert Prof. Pete Poston
discovered the same mitten was used by
the 1975 Chinese porters. Thus, it is
likely to have been dropped in 1975 when
the Chinese switched to
using what is now referred to as the
modern route, cresting the NE Ridge to
the right of the "Needles."
|